Champagne Radar

Blogs carefully selected and reviewed by Bubbles Academy team. Contributed by recognized champagne experts.
Champagne Radar

Raveneau Montée de Tonnerre 2015 and Marguet Avize & Cramant 2014

I am not really sure if I’m a Chablis-lover in a broad sense, but I am definitely a Raveneau-lover. Oh heck, nor would I be a Champagne-lover if there were just GH Mumm, Perrier-Jouët and Pommery.

Raveneau is one of my winemaking heroes since my long holidays in Burgundy and everything I admire in terroir specific wine. Montée de Tonnerre, similarly to their grands crus, has predominantly southern exposition (although they own different plots in this cru). They handled the warmth of the global warming vintage very well. Even if the nose is exuberant compared to 2014, it has seashell salinity, citrusy freshness and aftertaste with no finish line in sight. So little of oak tones that there’s almost no point mentioning. It does not strike me as severe high-acid vintage, it gives pleasure already.

Benoit Marguet’s Avize & Cramant is another terroir-driven chardonnay. My favourite of his cru selection. Still very youthful and strict as the cool vintage suggests. Although this brut nature is made from purchased fruits, grapes are organic. Very pure nose, low SO2 regime. It’s more ‘cutting’ than the 2013, and yet well suited for white grapes. Although cool years have greater ageing capacity, low-sulphur brut zero champagnes are not expected to spend decades in the cellar (even if you have a nice chilly basement), and from what I’ve learned - they don’t really care. The story is not about who will age longer. That’s not the point.
Kristaps Karklins