Champagne Radar

Blogs carefully selected and reviewed by Bubbles Academy team. Contributed by recognized champagne experts.
Champagne Radar

Clos du Mesnil

In our current climate it seems somewhat indulgent to engage in something so ridiculous as tonight. Every vintage of Clos du Mesnil and, where it was made, in magnum.
1979-1983, 2006 Bottles
1985-2004 Magnums

To say this was unique is to underplay the word. This was a once in, not just a lifetime but, a number of generations tasting! Which makes it almost impossible to be objective and critical.
I flat out love CdM. Lets get that out of the way. So, when the first glass drifted my way I was already off in the clouds. But, if I may, here are my thoughts (and due to IG restrictions not all the wines). All tasted blind:
Straight out Wow!:
1981
One of the wines of the night. Mesmeric nose. Ample, nutty, rich yet tight and engaging. Honeyed, saline. So fresh. Perfect.
1980
Deep orange gold. Tiny bubbles. Beautiful toffeed nose with honeycomb and burnt caramel. Loads of lateral grip and racy acidity. Decadent. Amazing.
2002
Rich tea biscuit, sweet lemon. Greengage, lime cordial. Hints of brioche. Concentrated, salty, textured. Epic!
Decadence:
1982
One of the more mature bottles but loads of fat, roasted notes. There is absolute joy to this wine right now.
2000
Utterly divine nose. Aromatic, toasted, exotic. Expansive, balanced and brilliant. The way this wine develops in the mouth is mind blowing.
In need of time:
1996
Bristling, bready but insanely young. Tight and closed. 6 hours later and it was just starting to show its true weight...should it have been opened the day before? Yes!
1990
Dark, stewed nuts with butter. Crisp and vertical. Spicey. Waffles and maple syrup. After 4 hours it had opened, transforming into a pervasive and brilliant wine.
Indifference:
1988
It split the room with its tense youthful acidity. I loved it. Rich yet restrained. Chocolate, mint and salt. Complex yet tight.
And that little bit of je ne sais quoi:
1979
We all guessed a decade younger! No joke! Tight, narrow, perfumed. Sweet and decadent but to be brutally honest it was just too fresh!?

@ilovechampagnes I can't thank you enough! What a night!
Peter Crawford